THE ART OF UNPLUGGING
Tranquility is found in the wildest of places. Phantom Ranch, heart of the Grand Canyon, is just that. Unplugging in the presence of nature reveals a contrast between technological dependence and tranquility.
The alarm sounds at 3:00 am. After triple checking the backpacks, we gulped a liter of electrolytes, a sandwich and fruit. Our packs were fairly light due to the absence of any tent gear or cookware. We carried 4 or 6 liters of water each because the South Kaibab trail has no water stations. The remainder of our belongings were stowed in the rental van and locked. Off we went walking in the dark to catch a shuttle. The south rim was remarkably cold, and the shuttle was late. With the company of other hikers, we are energized by the stretching and conversing yet on edge about what lies ahead hiking to the Grand Canyon’s hidden treasure, Phantom Ranch. Just about sunrise at 5:00 am we disembark into fiercely howling winds which further delay our start as we make adjustments to our gear and outerwear. At the top of the south rim, the wind blew like pins on our faces. The parking area and latrines are the most predominant elements in our dim lit view. With these factors in mind, I suspect a few of us had the thought—What have I signed up for? It seemed an eternity before getting our act together and taking the first hundred steps to the South Kaibab trail head. At which point the view is undeniably the Grand Canyon, an immense expanse of dry rock. The canyon is slopping rock which suddenly drops straight down and spills into another slope until we reach the plateau. The red, tan, and gray rock is dotted with scrubby bushes. The rising sun and our descent into the inverted desert with protection from the wind makes the temperature more comfortable. Our three-day journey off the grid begins.
Sunlight Replaces Blue-Light
After finding the pace that matches our agility while allowing the wonder to soak in, we pair up according to our rhythm. Resting after a mile to reunite, readjust our boots and refuel our bodies, my sister extends her arm out pointing “Can you see it?” she says. “There is the bottom of the canyon, Phantom Ranch.” The glimpse of our destination is deceiving because of switch backs and elevation changes yet to endure. Yet, an urge to get the show on the road sets us on pace. No turning around now, especially while in motion, for fear of falling. There is delight in the concentration it takes to hike. Although a phone may provide endless delight too, it is a mindless activity. Hiking makes you more aware and in tune with your body. We became excellent shade seekers, for that is what 100-degree dry heat calls for. Every inch of skin is covered with clothing or sunscreen. Periodically, we doused ourselves in water to cool down. The beauty in this experience isn’t just the canyon’s terrain and creatures; there is also beauty in the different people we encountered. Trail runners who’s daily route is the canyon, women who came down on a whim for some time away from husbands and kids, hikers with trail guides, and travelers on mules. A deeper connection is felt when sharing in an intensive experience. A connection that social media is no match for. Hikers look out for hikers. Someone had left a handwritten note secured down by a rock reading “snake behind the bend.” In an age of modern technology, most announcements are made over Twitter, but in the canyon pen and paper are preferred. Amazingly, the note was still there, set back from the trail, an undisturbed by commotion. We did as much mind documenting, as possible, along with taking a few pictures, gazing into a vast undisturbed place, such as the canyon.
The Advantage of Exhaustion
Well into the hike, in the heat of the day, are a long series of switch backs without shade. Hike, drink, hike, rest, drink, drench, hike, gaze. Finally, we reach a cave to rest and drink some more. Exiting the cave, we face the beautiful Kaibab suspension bridge over the blue-green Colorado River. A sense of triumph at the view of the river provides a false sense of arrival because Phantom Ranch is still a half mile away. Phantom Ranch is a lodger's dream at the bottom of the Grand Canyon and a stroll away from the Colorado River. Once we merge with Bright Angel Creek, it leads the way to the picturesque cabins built from local stone and wood were designed by Mary Elizabeth Jane Colter in 1920. You don’t appreciate the remarkable feat until you realize the craftsmen trekked themselves and their tools the same way you arrived, on foot or by mule or raft.
Eat and Appreciate
Accustomed to the options and convenience of modern life tends to make us very particular about food. Not here in Phantom Ranch. Essentially, either you carried food on your back all day or you prepaid for a meal at the ranch. Being in the latter group, we dutifully waited for the dinner bell and table assignment for a family style meal in the mess hall. There is one stew with sides and the biggest piece of chocolate cake. We happily and gratefully eat the food put in front of us. The next night was a steak dinner with baked potatoes, a vegetable and corn bread. The stew recipe has been used for fifty years. Everyone who works there, knows how to prepare the food on their shift. How is it possible for one meal to satisfy all cravings? A combination of exhaustion, peace, and fellowship made for a first-rate meal.
Finding Tranquility
Day two, our day of rest, the Colorado River is a stroll away. We soaked our feet and calves in the 60 degree water. Later, we sat in the warmer Bright Angel Creek. Hours passed with the exceptional white noise of the canyon in the background of our conversation. Water rushing over a xylophone of rocks, the cadence of mules, and vocals from birds creates the symphony of the canyon. My mind goes still. This experience of peace is so satisfying I forget about your phone, and I have no interest in a screen. A stay at Phantom Ranch is limited to 2 nights. The South Kaibab Trail is 7.5 miles, but we opted to ascend the 10 mile Bright Angel Trail. One of its highlights is a rest area called Indian Gardens where the water supports different vegetation. The most distinct difference from the trip down is every step up brought us closer to civilization. It is like waking up from a dream that you wish you could hold on to. In the last three miles of Bright Angel Trail during the late afternoon, it is crowded with tourists. Many of them trying to absorb what they can of the Canyon’s vastness in a short time. Their eyes are replaced by iPhones, shoes lacked ankle support, and little to no water. Meanwhile, we are tired. Thankfully, we have ample water or we would be miserable trying to weave among travelers and find shade to rest. Many of the tourists don’t know the rule to step aside for those hiking up. Some tourists would stop and point out towards the canyon saying “I see the bottom!” Little do they know of the arduous journey to the oasis at the bottom of the canyon. The most distinctive memory of these people is the smell of detergent, attempting to block the rush the modern world on my senses. I remind myself that I survived three days without an internet connection. A trip in the planning for 18 months came to an abrupt end. I stood at the bottom of the canyon immersed in the lush sounds of nature. From this vantage, I was not the slightest bit jealous of people standing at the south rim overlooking the canyon who were distracted by shutter clicks and notifications dings. I was awash in tranquility and when found it will not be forgotten.
